Safety Equipment:

Rubber Gloves Mask/Respirator
Safety Glasses

Standard Tools:

Carpenter's Levels
Chalk Line & Chalk
Tape Measure
Hammer
Carpenter’s Square
Rubber Mallet
4 Ft. Straight Edge
Large Sponge
Stiff Blade Putty Knife
Foxtail Hand Broom
Extension Cords
Marking Pencil
Low Speed Drill with Paddle Mixer
Clean Rags
Pencil

Tiling Tools:

The Patterns
There are many patterns available to choose from. If this is your first tile project, however, it’s best not to try to shoot for the moon. In other words, don’t bite off more than you can chew and then be forced to admit defeat when the project becomes too complicated to finish successfully. Two of the most common types of patterns for laying tile are a “jack-on-jack” pattern and a “running bond” pattern, with the “jack-on-jack” being the easier of the two to lay.

The jack-on-jack is a vertical pattern and is laid, from the center and out in one direction first, in a checkerboard pattern.

The running bond pattern uses offset grout lines for each row.

The Layout
Tile is a permanent surface that you will have to live with for many years to come. It will become a legacy of your home. Do not make the mistake of rushing the project and be disappointed with the end results. Take the time to properly prepare.

Many problems arise simply from not knowing how to measure and layout the area. Start by centering floor tiles in the middle of the room. Do not begin at a corner. There are steps you can take to ensure accuracy.

The first step is to find the center of two opposing walls by measuring. Place a chalk line in the center and snap down to the floor. Do the same thing on the opposing wall, creating two vertical lines.

Lay a tile down in the center at the point where the chalk lines meet. Do not use any adhesive at this point.

Lay down several more tiles, using spacers to allow for grout, horizontally and then vertically, creating two vertical rows of tiles. Doing this “dry run” allows you to visualize what the floor will look like and to make adjustments if necessary. You want to avoid having to cut or snap too many tiles, which only makes the project more difficult.

The Installation

• Start in the center of the room where the two chalk reference points meet. Use the chalk lines as a guide as you work your way outward in each quadrant, or quarter section of the floor.
  
• Apply adhesive only to the area you are immediately working. Spread adhesive with the notched edge of your trowel, creating even, beaded ridges.
  
• Carefully place tile on adhesive, using spacers to ensure evenness between tiles. If any adhesive pushes up through the space, wipe away with a rag soaked with a solvent.
  
• Once several rows of tiles are in place, use a mallet to set them securely. Do not use the mallet after every tile in the event you need to do some shifting. Further, the adhesive does not start to set until 20 to 30 minutes after being laid.
  
• Repeat steps for entire floor.

The Corners and Around Obstacles
Eventually, however, the task will require you to cut and shape tiles to fit around corners and obstacles. Tile scoring and cutting can be accomplished with a glass or tile cutter for smaller tiles, and a wet-saw for larger tiles. Wet saws can be cheaply rented.

The first step is to don protective safety glasses. Having done that, if you plan to score and snap tiles, use a firm, even pressure to avoid cracking or breaking tiles. To create accurate right angles, use a combination square as a straightedge. And finally, score or cut tile in one fluid stroke to create smooth, clean scores and cuts.

Accurately measure so you create properly scored tiles. No point going to the trouble if you will have redo it because you did not measure it correctly. Once the tile is scored, place over a nail, grip tile on either side of score, and apply firm pressure until tile snaps.

When cutting, always move tile away from you, toward the blade and, if using a wet saw, let the blade do the work for you. Don’t force it or it may crack or break.

Sandpaper or round files can be used to smooth rough edges.

Grout

• Apply grout by holding rubber float nearly level with the floor and spreading mixture between tiles. Be sure to pack all of the joints tightly. You don’t want the grout just sitting on top.
  
• Clean away any excess grout from the tiles with the edge of the grout float. Use your finger or a toothbrush to smooth the grout.
  
• After 25 to 30 minutes, wipe away all excess grout from tiles using a damp cloth or sponge. Stroke diagonally to the tile joints. After 24 hours, if any grout remains, simply buff away with a clean, dry rag.
  
• Where the tiles meet the counter, wall, tub, or shower, fill with a water-soluble silicone caulking and wipe away excess.
  
• A grout sealer can be applied after about a week to prevent grout from becoming discolored and to protect from common household mishaps, such as spills, staining it.

Congratulations! Take pride in your new masterpiece!